Traditional Music in Galway: A Guide to The Crane, Tigh Neachtain, and the Perfect "Session"
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Traditional Music in Galway: A Guide to The Crane, Tigh Neachtain, and the Perfect "Session"

Aidan O'KeenanOctober 11, 20259 min read

If you walk down Shop Street in The Latin Quarter & Spanish Arch: A Walking Guide any given Tuesday, you will hear music.

It comes from the teenagers busking with acoustic guitars outside the bank. It drifts out of the open doors of the pubs. It echoes from the fiddles being played down by the Spanish Arch.

Galway is the Festival Capital of Ireland, but its heartbeat is Traditional Music ("Trad"). Unlike Dublin, where music is often a stage show paid for by tourists, in Galway, the music is woven into the fabric of daily life.

For American travelers exploring The American’s Guide to Galway: The City of Tribes & The Wild West, seeing a live music session is mandatory. But there is a difference between a "Gig" and a "Session." Understanding that difference—and knowing where to go—is the key to a legendary night out.

1. What is a "Trad Session"? (And How to Spot a Fake)

Before you enter the pub, you need to understand what you are looking for.

The "Gig"

If you see a stage, a microphone, a heavy amplification system, and two guys playing "Galway Girl" or "Country Roads," that is a gig. It is entertainment designed for tourists. It’s fun, but it’s not culturally significant.

The "Seisiún" (Session)

A real session is informal.

  • The Setup: Musicians sit in a circle in the corner of the pub. There is usually no stage and no microphone.
  • The Dynamic: It is democratic. One musician starts a tune (a reel or a jig), and the others join in when they recognize it. They are playing for each other, not necessarily for the audience.
  • The Instruments: You will see fiddles, flutes, tin whistles, concertinas, bodhráns (drums), and maybe a guitar for rhythm.

2. The Holy Grail: Tigh Neachtain (Naughton’s)

The colorful yellow and blue exterior of Tigh Neachtain pub on Cross Street, Galway.

Located on the corner of Cross Street and Quay Street, Tigh Neachtain (pronounced Chee Knock-tan) is arguably the best pub in the city.

The History

The building itself is historic, once the home of Richard Martin (known as "Humanity Dick"), a founder of the RSPCA. The pub has been run by the Neachtain family since 1894.

The Atmosphere

Neachtain’s is the antithesis of the open-plan sports bar. It is a labyrinth of tiny, wood-paneled "snugs" (booths) and partitions.

  • The Session: Musicians gather in the front window snug. If you can squeeze in there, you are in the eye of the storm. The music here is high-energy and often spontaneous.
  • The Drink: This is also a serious beer pub, stocking Galway Hooker Pale Ale and other local craft brews alongside the requisite Guinness. (Hungry after the music? They serve excellent food during the day. Check out Galway Food & Oysters: The Culinary Capital for more on pub grub).

3. The Purist’s Choice: The Crane Bar

The exterior of The Crane Bar in Galway's West End, famous for traditional music.

If Tigh Neachtain is the bohemian heart, The Crane Bar is the soul.

Located in the "West End" (just across the river from the Latin Quarter), this is widely considered one of the finest music pubs in all of Ireland. It is renowned for its "listening" atmosphere.

Downstairs vs. Upstairs

The Crane is a tale of two pubs.

  • Downstairs: A traditional, chatty local bar. You might hear a guitar singer here, and the conversation is loud and lively.
  • Upstairs: This is the magic room. Every night at 9:30 PM, the session starts upstairs. The room is often packed. When the musicians start, a hush falls over the crowd. This is a place to listen, not to shout over the music.
  • The Talent: You will often see world-class musicians who just happen to be in town dropping in to play a set.

4. The "Daytime" Sessions: Tigh Cóilí and Taaffes

Most sessions happen at night (9:30 PM onwards), which can be late for jet-lagged travelers. However, on Mainguard Street, two pubs offer the rare "Daytime Session."

Tigh Cóilí

Known as the "Red Pub" (due to its painted facade), Tigh Cóilí has no TV and no pool table. It is 100% focused on music.

  • The Timing: They often have a session starting at 5:30 PM or even earlier on weekends. It is fantastic for families who want to experience the culture but can't stay out until midnight.
  • The Crowd: It gets packed. Expect to stand. But the atmosphere is electric.

Taaffes Bar

Located right next door, Taaffes is famous for its "Ballad Sessions." If you want to hear actual singing (songs like "The Fields of Athenry") rather than just instrumental fiddle tunes, this is a great spot.

5. Session Etiquette: Don't Be "That Tourist"

To be welcomed into a session, you need to follow the unwritten rules.

  1. Do Not Clap Along (Usually): Irish Trad rhythm is complex (jigs are 6/8 time, reels are 4/4). Most tourists clap on the wrong beat, throwing the musicians off. Unless the band asks you to clap, just tap your foot.
  2. The "Hush" for the Singer: If the instruments stop and someone starts singing a slow song (Sean-nós), the pub must go silent. The bartender will stop serving. Talking during a solo singer is considered extremely rude.
  3. Don't Crouch in the Circle: The circle of chairs is for musicians. Do not pull up a stool and sit in the circle unless you have an instrument and can play at a professional level.
  4. Buying a Drink: If you are enjoying the music for an hour, buy a drink. If you don't drink alcohol, buy a soda. The pub pays the musicians (usually), so supporting the bar supports the music.

6. The Instruments: What Are You Hearing?

A close-up of a musician playing the Uilleann pipes, a traditional Irish instrument.

A guide can explain the nuances, but here is a cheat sheet:

  • Uilleann Pipes: The "Irish Bagpipes." Unlike Scottish pipes (blown by mouth), these are inflated by a bellows strapped to the elbow. They are quieter, sweeter, and incredibly complex to play.
  • The Bodhrán: An Irish frame drum made of goat skin, played with a "tipper" (stick).
  • The Tin Whistle: Don't let the name fool you. In the hands of a master, this cheap metal tube can make grown men cry.

7. Beyond the City: Doolin

If you are taking a day trip to the The Cliffs of Moher from Galway, you must stop in the village of Doolin. Doolin is often cited as the place where the revival of Irish music began in the 1960s. Pubs like Gus O'Connor's and McGann's have music 364 days a year. It is a different style to Galway city—often faster and more flute-based.

8. Why You Need a Local Guide

You can walk into a pub and hope for music. But a local guide ensures you find the right music.

  • The Schedule: Sessions change. The Crane might have a piper on Tuesday but a singer on Thursday. A local guide knows the weekly rota intimately.
  • The Introductions: A guide often knows the musicians personally. They can introduce you during the break, allowing you to ask about their 200-year-old fiddle or the story behind the song.
  • The "Lock-In": Occasionally, after the official closing time, the doors are locked, and the music continues for a select few. You won't get into a lock-in unless you are with a local.

Experience the Real Rhythm of Galway

Don't settle for a cover band playing "Whiskey in the Jar." Discover the ancient, pulse-quickening sound of real Traditional Irish Music.

Hire a local nightlife guide to take you to the hidden snugs and the upstairs rooms where the magic happens.

Find a Galway Nightlife Guide Now →