The True Story of Alice Kyteler in Kilkenny (The Dark History Guide)

If you think witch trials began in Massachusetts, prepare to travel much further back—and much further east.

In 1324, in the dark, crowded lanes of Kilkenny, the chilling events of Europe's first recorded witch trial unfolded. The central figure was a highly unusual woman named Alice Kyteler, whose story is the perfect example of how the city’s medieval history remains alive in every alleyway. This dramatic, unsettling history is an essential stop on your journey through Ireland's Medieval Capital.

The Wealthy Woman Who Defied the Norm

Alice Kyteler was born into privilege and quickly became one of the most powerful—and feared—people in Kilkenny. She was a shrewd moneylender and merchant who married four times. This financial success and defiance of traditional female roles were enough to make her a target in 14th-century Ireland. Each marriage mysteriously ended with the death of the husband, and each time, Alice retained—and increased—her wealth and social standing.

Her stepchildren, seeing their inheritances dwindle, were the first to raise the alarm. They claimed she was using magical powders, potions, and elaborate rituals to poison their fathers and ensure the fortunes were transferred to her favored son, William Outlawe.

The Bishop and the Political Firestorm

The local accusations gained massive political weight when Bishop Richard de Ledrede, a fiercely devoted and equally feared reformer, arrived in Kilkenny. Obsessed with rooting out heresy, he saw Alice’s independence and wealth as undeniable proof of a dark conspiracy.

The charges against Alice were sensational and terrifying to the populace:

• She was sacrificing animals at the crossroads to demons and holding dark rituals at night.
• She possessed a specific powder that could influence and kill her husbands.
• She explicitly denied the authority of the Church.

Church vs. Crown: The Battle for Alice

The trial that ensued was not just a criminal case; it was a political firestorm that tested the separation of Church and State. Alice was politically protected by powerful friends who constantly bailed her out or moved her to safety. Bishop Ledrede was so determined to prosecute her that he even had the local Chancellor of Ireland imprisoned when the Chancellor attempted to obstruct the case. For nearly a year, the Bishop and the secular government waged war over who had the right to try and sentence Alice.

The Escape and the Fate of Petronilla

The trial became a national spectacle. Alice was eventually imprisoned, but her political connections proved stronger than the Bishop’s zeal. Before she could be found guilty by the Church court, her allies successfully helped her escape. She slipped away, allegedly vanishing into the network of tunnels and medieval 'slips' for which Kilkenny is famous, and was never seen again in Ireland. It is believed she fled to England.

Tragically, her maid, Petronilla de Meath, was arrested in her place. Under agonizing torture, Petronilla confessed to being Alice’s accomplice, admitting that she was present at the rituals. She was condemned and burned alive at the stake in Kilkenny in November 1324—becoming the first person in Europe to be executed for the crime of heresy and witchcraft. Her fate is the true heart of this dark Kilkenny legend.

Visit the Scene of the Crime: Kyteler's Inn

The story has a very literal foothold in the city today: Kyteler's Inn, located on St. Kieran Street. The building is centuries old and now operates as a popular pub and restaurant. It is a mandatory stop for tourists interested in the darker side of the city.

The atmosphere here is thick with history, and locals swear Alice's spirit still haunts the premises. The building’s massive stone walls and ancient cellars provide a tangible link to 1324. It is a fantastic spot to grab a traditional Irish meal and a pint while reflecting on the city's unsettling past.

(Tip: For more about Kilkenny’s legendary drinking establishments, check out our guide to Smithwick’s and Kilkenny's Pub Culture

Why You Need a Guide for the Ghost Stories

While you can drink a beer at Kyteler’s Inn, the official state tours often downplay the severity and horror of the witch trial. The best stories are not on the menu.

A specialized local storyteller or history guide will:

• Set the Scene: They know the precise, often unmarked locations where Petronilla was imprisoned and where she was executed.
• Use the Night: Many guides offer evening walking tours where the atmosphere of the Medieval Mile—with its dark stone walls and narrow slipways—truly brings the 14th-century terror to life.
• The Right Details: They explain the crucial political context that allowed Alice to escape and why Petronilla was left behind, adding necessary depth and ethical weight to the sensational history.

See the Real Kilkenny with a Local Expert

Kilkenny is famous for its "Medieval Mile," but the best stories aren’t written on the plaques. Don’t just look at the old stones—let a local guide bring them to life.

Whether you want to find the best pint of Smithwick’s, hear the true ghost stories of the slips, or just need someone to navigate the winding streets, we have the right person for you.

Browse our Directory of Local Kilkenny Guides & Drivers →