The Ring of Kerry by Car: The Complete Driving Guide
The N70 coast road from Killarney to Kenmare, around the Iveragh Peninsula, and back to Killarney is the most famous driving route in Ireland. The Ring of Kerry has been photographed from every angle, written about in every language, and driven by more rental cars than any other road in the country. That reputation brings crowds, and the crowds bring the predictable complaints: coach buses, slow-moving convoys, car parks that fill by ten in the morning, and a sense that you are following a script written by someone else.
But the Ring of Kerry is still worth doing. The scenery is genuinely extraordinary, the road passes through villages where traditional life continues alongside the tourism industry, and with the right timing and the right route, you can avoid the worst of the congestion. This guide is not a list of pretty viewpoints. It is a practical driving guide that covers direction, timing, the stops that justify the detour, and how to handle the logistics of a road that was never designed for the volume of traffic it now carries. If you are building a broader Kerry itinerary, Things to Do in Kerry: The Complete Guide to Ireland's Most Famous County places the Ring in context alongside Dingle, Killarney, and the county's quieter corners.
Which Direction to Drive the Ring of Kerry
The debate about direction comes up in every guide, and the answer is simpler than most visitors think. Drive clockwise, starting from Killarney and heading towards Kenmare first. This puts you on the inside lane along the most dramatic cliff sections between Waterville and Caherdaniel, which is safer for nervous drivers and better for passengers who want to look at the view without crossing traffic.
The counter-clockwise argument holds that you beat the tour buses by going against the flow. That was true ten years ago. Now, the coaches run in both directions, and the real factor is not the direction but the time of day. Starting from Killarney at or before eight in the morning puts you ahead of the main coach departures, which tend to leave Killarney between nine and ten. By the time you reach the most congested sections around Moll's Gap and Ladies View, you will have a clear road.
Leaving Killarney in the late morning or at midday guarantees that you will be stuck behind coaches on narrow stretches for much of the afternoon. If you cannot start early, consider doing the route in reverse in the late afternoon, when the coaches are returning to Killarney and the western sections are quieter.
Timing the Route: How Long Does the Ring of Kerry Take
The full Ring is approximately 180 kilometres. Without stops, the drive takes three and a half to four hours. With stops at the major viewpoints and one meal, it takes a full day. With the detours and side trips that make the route worthwhile, it takes a day and a half.
A common mistake is to try to cram the Ring into a single afternoon. This results in a frustrating experience where you spend more time in traffic than at the viewpoints. The better approach is to break the route into two days. Stay overnight in Waterville, Portmagee, or Cahersiveen, which gives you the evening light at the western end of the peninsula and a second morning to explore Valentia Island or the Skellig Ring before the coaches arrive.
For visitors combining the Ring with the Dingle Peninsula, The Dingle Peninsula: A Complete Visitor's Guide explains how to sequence the two routes without doubling back on yourself.
The Essential Stops: What to See on the Ring of Kerry
Not every lay-by deserves your time. These are the stops that justify pulling over.
Ladies View, shortly after leaving Killarney, is the first major viewpoint and one of the best. It looks south across the Lakes of Killarney towards the MacGillycuddy's Reeks. The viewing platform is accessible, the parking is large, and the cafe is decent. It is worth a stop, though it will be busy by mid-morning.
Moll's Gap is less a viewpoint than a mountain pass with a shop and parking area. The scenery is dramatic but the stop itself is crowded and the shop overpriced. Consider it a brief pause rather than a destination.
Kenmare is the first major town and the best place for an early lunch if you left Killarney before eight. The town has excellent restaurants and a more relaxed atmosphere than Killarney. Our guide to Kenmare: Where to Stay, Eat, and Explore covers the food and accommodation options in detail.
Sneem is a small village with two squares, brightly painted houses, and a handful of craft shops. It is a good place for a short walk and a coffee. The sculptures in the North Square are worth a look.
Waterville sits on a narrow strip of land between Lough Currane and Ballinskelligs Bay. It was Charlie Chaplin's favourite Irish destination, and a statue of him stands on the seafront. The village has good pubs and a strong seafood tradition.
The Skellig Ring detour from Portmagee to Valentia Island is, for many drivers, the highlight of the entire trip. The road is narrower and slower than the main Ring, but the views across to the Skellig Islands are unmatched. This detour is covered in detail in Valentia Island: Kerry's Best-Kept Secret, which explains the bridge, the lighthouse, and the island's surprising history.
Caherdaniel, near Derrynane Bay, is the location of Derrynane House, the ancestral home of Daniel O'Connell, the nineteenth-century political leader who secured Catholic emancipation. The house is open to visitors, and the surrounding National Historic Park includes beaches and woodland walks.
Where to Break the Journey: Accommodation and Meals
The best way to experience the Ring of Kerry is to stay on it, rather than making a round trip from Killarney in a single day. Waterville, Portmagee, Cahersiveen, and Caherdaniel all have accommodation ranging from guesthouses to small hotels. Staying overnight allows you to see the Ring at the times when the coaches have gone: early morning, evening, and late afternoon.
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For food, Kenmare has the strongest restaurant scene. Waterville and Portmagee both have excellent seafood pubs. Cahersiveen is more workaday but has a good chipper and a solid gastropub. If you are doing the route in a single day, bring snacks and water. The tourist-focused cafes at the major viewpoints are expensive and the quality is variable.
Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
The most common mistake is poor timing. Starting at ten in the morning from Killarney means you hit every bottleneck at peak congestion. The second most common mistake is trying to see everything. The Ring is not a checklist. You will enjoy it more if you choose five or six stops and spend real time at them, rather than pulling over at every lay-by.
Driving etiquette matters on narrow Irish roads. The Ring has sections where two cars cannot pass, and the protocol is that the car closest to a passing place reverses. Do not expect the oncoming driver to do it automatically. Use your indicators early, pull in for faster traffic, and be patient with farm vehicles and cyclists.
Weather is the third factor. The Ring of Kerry is an Atlantic coastal route, and rain, mist, and sudden wind are normal. A clear forecast for Killarney does not guarantee clear weather on the western end of the peninsula. Bring waterproofs, and do not be discouraged by grey skies. The cliffs and Atlantic surf look more dramatic in storm light than in sunshine.
Why You Need a Local Guide for the Ring of Kerry
The Ring of Kerry can be driven independently, and thousands of visitors do so every year. But the difference between a self-drive and a guided experience is substantial. A private driver guide who knows the Iveragh Peninsula knows which mornings the mist clears from the Reeks by nine, which pubs serve lunch after two thirty when the kitchens in Kenmare have closed, and how to reroute around the coach convoys that can add an hour to the journey.
More importantly, a local guide can take you off the main Ring to the places that do not appear in the standard itineraries. The prehistoric stone forts at Staigue and Loher, the hidden coves between Caherdaniel and Castlecove, the small harbours where fishermen still land lobster by hand. These are not secret locations. They are simply not on the coach route, and most independent visitors never hear about them.
For visitors from the diaspora, a driver guide also removes the stress of navigating narrow roads on the left, reading Irish place names, and finding parking in villages that were not designed for modern traffic. The Ring is meant to be looked at, not wrestled with.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long is the Ring of Kerry driving route?
The full Ring of Kerry is approximately 180 kilometres. The drive takes three and a half to four hours without stops. With stops and a meal, plan for a full day.
Can the Ring of Kerry be done in one day?
Yes, but it is better done over two days with an overnight stay in Waterville, Portmagee, or Cahersiveen. A single-day trip from Killarney feels rushed and involves heavy traffic in peak season.
Are there tour buses on the Ring of Kerry?
Yes, and in large numbers during the summer months. The coaches are most numerous between ten in the morning and four in the afternoon. Starting early or staying overnight are the best ways to avoid them.
Is the Ring of Kerry suitable for cycling?
The route is popular with experienced cyclists but involves significant hills, narrow roads, and heavy traffic in summer. Casual cyclists should consider the shorter Greenway routes or the section between Glenbeigh and Cahersiveen, which is quieter than the main Ring.
Conclusion
The Ring of Kerry does not need to be a frustrating coach tour experience. With an early start, a clockwise direction, and a willingness to stay overnight, it remains one of the great drives of Europe. The key is to treat it as a journey rather than a checklist, and to leave room for the detours and unexpected stops that make Irish road travel worthwhile. For the beaches along the route, see Inch Beach and the Best Beaches in Kerry. For Killarney at the start or end of the drive, Things to Do in Killarney: A Local's Guide to the Town and National Park covers the town and the national park in full. And for the complete Kerry picture, Things to Do in Kerry: The Complete Guide to Ireland's Most Famous County ties every region together. A private driver guide who knows the peninsula will show you the Ring that the buses never reach.
For the complete Kerry picture, see Things to Do in Kerry: The Complete Guide. Related reads include Valentia Island, Kenmare, and Inch Beach and the Best Beaches in Kerry.
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