The Great Western Greenway: Cycling Mayo's Coastal Trail
You roll out of Westport just after breakfast, the town still quiet enough that you can hear the tyres humming on the tarmac. Within five minutes the houses thin out, the road dips, and you are on the old railway embankment with Clew Bay opening to your left — a scatter of drumlin islands in grey-green water, the kind of view that makes you stop pedalling without meaning to. The Great Western Greenway does not announce itself with signs or fanfare. It simply begins, and suddenly you are forty-two kilometres from anywhere a car can reach you.
This is Ireland's second most visited off-road cycling route, and for good reason. The trail follows the bed of the old Midland Great Western Railway from Westport to Achill Island, passing through Newport and Mulranny before crossing the causeway to Achill Sound. It opened in 2011, roughly seventy years after the last train ran, and has since become the defining experience for anyone cycling in County Mayo. The gradient is gentle enough for children. The scenery is dramatic enough for the most travelled cyclist. And the villages along the way — Newport with its seven-arch viaduct, Mulranny with its salt marsh boardwalks — give you reasons to stop that have nothing to do with catching your breath.
For anyone planning a broader cycling trip through the west, Cycling in Ireland: The Complete Guide to Bike Tours, Greenways and Routes covers how to stitch the Greenway into a longer itinerary that takes in Connemara, Achill, and the Wild Atlantic Way. This guide focuses on the Greenway itself. Where to start, what to expect, and why the old railway line between Westport and Achill is still the best way to see this stretch of coast.
What Is the Great Western Greenway?
The Great Western Greenway is a 42-kilometre traffic-free cycling and walking trail that runs from Westport in County Mayo to Achill Island, with the full route passing through Newport and Mulranny. It follows the path of the former Midland Great Western Railway line, which operated from 1894 until its closure in 1937.
What distinguishes this route is the variety of landscape it crosses in a relatively short distance. You begin in the sheltered farmland outside Westport, with Croagh Patrick rising to the south. At Newport, the trail crosses the Burrishoole Viaduct, seven stone arches spanning the tidal channel where the Black Oak River meets Clew Bay. Beyond Mulranny, the terrain opens into Atlantic coastline — salt marshes, dunes, and the long causeway that carries you across to Achill Sound with the ocean on both sides.
The surface is smooth compacted gravel and tarmac, maintained by Mayo County Council and the local Greenway management. It is wide enough for two cyclists to pass comfortably, and the old railway gradients mean no section is steep enough to trouble anyone of moderate fitness. Families with young children, older cyclists, and first-time visitors to Ireland regularly complete the full distance in a day.
The Route: Westport to Achill Island
The most common direction is westbound — Westport to Achill — because the prevailing wind is behind you more often than not, and because Achill makes a natural endpoint for the day. Most cyclists hire bikes in Westport and arrange return transport from Achill, or cycle back the following day.
The first section, Westport to Newport, is roughly eleven kilometres. It passes through low farmland with views of Croagh Patrick, the holy mountain rising 764 metres above the bay. On a clear day you can see the trail of pilgrims on the upper slopes. The route here is sheltered, bordered by hedgerow and the occasional stone cottage, and it eases you into the rhythm of the Greenway without any dramatic elevation changes.
Newport to Mulranny covers the next sixteen kilometres and is, for many, the most memorable section. You cross the Burrishoole Viaduct immediately west of Newport — a structure worth stopping for, with views down the tidal channel to the bay beyond. After the viaduct, the trail skirts the northern shore of Clew Bay, passing bogland and small lakes before reaching Mulranny at the narrow neck of the Corraun Peninsula. Mulranny itself sits between the bay and the Atlantic, and the village has a hotel, cafes, and a beach that faces west into the sunset.
The final section, Mulranny to Achill, is approximately fifteen kilometres and includes the causeway crossing. This is where the landscape changes most dramatically. The sheltered inland feeling of the first thirty kilometres gives way to open Atlantic coast. The causeway itself is flat and exposed — on a windy day you will feel it here — but the views across to Achill Beg and the Slievemore cliffs are worth the effort. You arrive at Achill Sound, the gateway to Achill Island, where a bridge carries you across to the island proper.
Bike Hire and Practical Information
Bike hire is available at multiple points along the route, which means you are not committed to cycling the full distance if you prefer a shorter day. The main hire centres are in Westport, Newport, Mulranny, and Achill, and most offer a range of bikes including hybrids, electric bikes, and tandems. Some operators also provide luggage transfer and shuttle services, which is useful if you are staying in Westport and want to cycle one way.
The cost of hire varies by season and bike type, but expect to pay roughly fifteen to twenty-five euros per day for a standard hybrid. Electric bikes are more expensive — typically thirty-five to fifty euros — but they remove any concern about the distance, particularly if you are planning to cycle back to your starting point. Tandems and children's bikes are available at most of the larger hire centres in Westport.
What you do not need is a racing bike or serious cycling gear. The surface is suitable for any bike with standard road tyres, and the gradients are gentle enough that heavy panniers or city bikes handle the route without difficulty. Helmets are recommended and are usually included in the hire cost. Bring waterproofs regardless of the forecast — Mayo weather changes quickly, and the exposed sections near Achill can be cold even in summer.
What to See Along the Way
The Greenway is not a route you race through. The old railway line was chosen because it followed the easiest path through difficult terrain, which means it also passes through some of the most visually striking landscape on the west coast. The stops are as important as the cycling.
At Newport, the seven-arch viaduct is the obvious landmark, but the village itself deserves time. The Newport Bar and local cafes sit within a few metres of the trail, and the quayside gives you a view of the tidal channel that changes character completely between high and low water. If you are interested in heritage, the Burrishoole Abbey ruins are a short detour from the trail near the viaduct — a fifteenth-century Dominican friary with gravestones that predate the railway by centuries.
Mulranny marks the halfway point for most cyclists and is where many choose to break for lunch. The village hotel serves food, and there are picnic spots near the beach. The Mulranny Saltmarsh Trail, a short boardwalk loop, is worth ten minutes of your time — it runs through the salt marshes at the edge of the bay, and the birdlife here is remarkable, particularly in spring and autumn.
Achill Island itself deserves more than a glance from the Greenway endpoint. If you have arranged return transport, consider staying on the island for a day or two. Keem Bay, at the western tip, is one of the finest beaches in Ireland, and the Atlantic Drive loop takes you past the deserted village at Slievemore and the dramatic cliffs at Croaghaun. The Greenway brings you to Achill, but the island rewards exploration beyond the trail.
Why You Need a Local Guide for the Great Western Greenway
The Great Western Greenway is signposted, mapped, and well documented. You do not need a guide to find the trailhead. What a local guide offers is the context that turns a pleasant cycle into a coherent experience — the history of the railway line, the names of the islands in Clew Bay, the best place to stop for coffee before the Mulranny crowds arrive, and the sections where the wind is strong enough to make an electric bike worth the extra cost.
A local guide who knows Mayo can also advise on how to extend the Greenway into a longer itinerary. The trail connects naturally with the Cycling the Wild Atlantic Way: A Complete Route Guide if you want to continue west along the coast, and with the Connemara Cycling: Scenic Routes and Quiet Roads options if you are heading south toward Galway. They can arrange hire, shuttle services, and accommodation in the villages along the route — logistics that become complicated quickly if you are trying to coordinate them from abroad.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does it take to cycle the Great Western Greenway?
Most cyclists complete the full 42 kilometres from Westport to Achill in three to four hours of actual riding. With stops for photographs, lunch in Mulranny, and time at the Burrishoole Viaduct, the full experience typically takes five to six hours. If you prefer a shorter day, the Westport to Newport section is an easy two-hour round trip, and Newport to Mulranny makes a manageable half-day.
Is the Great Western Greenway suitable for families?
Yes. The gradient is gentle, the surface is smooth, and there are no road crossings on the main sections. Most hire centres provide child seats, tag-along bikes, and trailers. The only consideration for families is the distance — forty-two kilometres is a long day for young children, so plan to break the route into sections or arrange a shuttle pickup in Mulranny.
Do you need to book bike hire in advance?
In July and August, yes. The Greenway is popular, and the larger hire centres in Westport can run out of bikes — particularly electric bikes — on busy weekends. Outside the summer months, walk-in hire is usually available, though booking ahead still guarantees your preferred bike type and size. Most hire companies offer online booking with cancellation policies.
Can you cycle the Great Western Greenway in winter?
The trail is open year-round, and winter cycling is possible if you are prepared for the weather. Mayo winters are mild by Irish standards, but rain is frequent and the exposed sections near Achill can be cold and windy. The main limitation in winter is reduced daylight — you will want to start early and finish by mid-afternoon. Some hire centres reduce their winter opening hours, so check availability in advance.
The Great Western Greenway is not the longest trail in Ireland, nor the most challenging. What it offers is a carefully balanced experience — enough distance to feel like a journey, enough scenery to justify every kilometre, and enough village stops to make the day comfortable rather than arduous. From the stone viaduct at Newport to the Atlantic crossing at Achill, the old railway line carries you through a landscape that cars simply do not reach.
For a broader view of cycling across the island, Cycling in Ireland: The Complete Guide to Bike Tours, Greenways and Routes covers everything from greenways to mountain trails and road routes. If the Greenway leaves you wanting more of the west coast, Cycling the Wild Atlantic Way: A Complete Route Guide picks up where Achill leaves off, and Connemara Cycling: Scenic Routes and Quiet Roads extends the journey south into Galway. A local guide can help you connect them into a trip that makes sense.
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